POINT REYES - DRAKES HEAD
Estero Trail to Drakes Head | Inverness, CA
★★★★☆
An underrated Point Reyes breathtaker that brings you into close proximity with water, wind, and wildlife - you can nearly hear David Attenborough narrating as you walk.
Last hiked 2/21/21
Length: 9.0 mi.
Gain: 1150 ft.
Type: Out and back
Difficulty: Low
Crowds: Low
Dogs: No
THE RUNDOWN
Estero is Spanish for estuary. At Drakes Estero, freshwater runoff combines with saltwater from the Pacific to form stunning landscapes and to support a rich local ecosystem. Not to get philosophical, but this hike makes you see water differently, as something more meaningful than the stuff that comes out of the faucet. As a bonus, you’ll run into all sorts of wildlife, not to mention the not-so-wild cows that somehow make this hike all the more idyllic.
Park at the Estero Trailhead. The parking lot was surprisingly empty when we arrived at 8:30; we recommend arriving no later than 9:30. The lot had overflowed by the time we finished at around 1:30.
This is a rather straightforward hike. If you'd like, add Sunset Beach Trail for an additional 2.6 mi.
The elevation changes shown are highly exaggerated. Besides a few hills, this hike is practically flat.
Parking is located off of a narrow, unmarked road. Use Google Maps as this road is easy to miss when driving on Sir Francis Drake Blvd.
STEP BY STEP
↑ Proceed to Estero Trail.
← Bear left to stay on Estero Trail.
Tip: Keep an eye out for this fork to prevent accidentally continuing onto Sunset Beach Trail.
Note: You can add Sunset Beach Trail to your hike for an additional 2.6 mi.
→ Make a right onto Drakes Head Trail.
↓ Double back on Drakes Head Trail.
← Make a left onto Estero Trail which leads back to the parking area.
We absolutely loved the drive to the trailhead as much as the hike itself.
Forget farm-to-table, this is farm-to-mouth. With wild, organic, non-GMO, gluten-free grass. Eaten by free-range cows. Doesn't get more NorCal than that.
Photogenic silt deposits emerge at half tide.
Drakes Estero brings the word "stillness" to another level.
MUSINGS
When we set out to hike Drakes Head, we honestly didn't have high expectations. On paper, it doesn't seem particularly exciting - fairly flat, and an out-and-back. But as it turns out, this hike is actually an immersive nature walk, chock full of wildlife and unique natural landforms if you just keep your eyes and ears peeled.
Estero Trail begins by meandering through a small forested area which opens out into the estuary. If you arrive at mid-tide like we did, you'll be able to appreciate beautiful labyrinth-like silt deposits peeking through the brackish water. The estuary is a sanctuary for shorebirds, fish, and the occasional bird of prey. We were lucky enough to spot a bald eagle and plenty of hawks and turkey vultures.
There isn't much to say about Drakes Head Trail itself - it's pretty flat and travels through the grassy bluffs and headlands as it meanders towards the coast. That said, there's nothing boring about this hike. Since this area is less populated than other parts of the park, it's likely you'll come across a lot of animals. You'll cross paths with numerous herds of cows from the neighboring ranches (watch out for cow pies - we may have stepped in a few when we weren't paying close attention...) - make sure to be cautious and respectful to the cows as they are easily startled, and we are rudely traipsing through their homes anyhow! It's likely you'll also see families of elk and deer galloping across the horizon.
The most incredible part of this hike was the immense feeling of peaceful solitude that we enjoyed. We hit the trails early in the morning, so we basically had them to ourselves for the first half of our hike. Picture miles of green hills (or golden, in summer months), gently tickled by a soft breeze, dotted with grazing cows and frolicking calves. Is this not the physical manifestation of zen and happiness? We sure thought it was!
All the while, we could see the brilliant aquamarine-colored ocean winking at us from a distance - plenty of motivation to continue hiking. The trail ends at Drakes Head, a cliff which overlooks Drakes Bay and a small portion of Limantour Spit (not accessible from the trail). We've heard that you can often spot sharks and bay rays from this cliff, though we didn't catch a glimpse of any when we visited. It's a wonderful vantage point, with views of the coast to the east and west. If it's not too windy, this is a great spot for a picnic.
Pros of an out and back: doubling back to the trailhead gives you a second chance to spot wildlife if you didn't get enough of it the first time around!
[Insert David Attenborough narration here]
The estuary's silt deposits create a natural playground (and scrumptious feast) for numerous species of birds.
An inviting approach to Drakes Head, marking the end of Estero Trail.
It wouldn't be a Point Reyes hike if it didn't have a bit of everything, including attractive pine woodland near the trailhead.
We were greeted by frolicking deer in the cow pastures midway through the hike.
A 5-star luxury resort for the free-range cows from local dairies.
On the edge of Drakes Head overlooking Limantour Spit and the mighty Pacific.
Sharks and bat rays are commonly seen in the calm, clear waters at Drakes Head, but we didn't spot any that day.
Early morning vibes on the drive to the trailhead.
MORE INFO
Some Reminders
Protip - If possible, plan to arrive halfway between high and low tide. The smooth, labyrinth-like silt deposits near the bridge emerge as the water recedes. Too high and the grooves are hidden; too low and the water disappears, resulting in rather ugly mud deposits. This is purely for photographic/viewing aesthetics and won't make or break your hike. Check tide charts here.
Please respect the cows and keep your distance. If they're blocking the metal gates, approach them slowly, and hope for the best. More likely than not, they'll yield.
It's often windy and chilly on Drakes Head at the end of the trail. Pack layers.
Disclaimer - we hiked this trail in late winter after some rainfall, making for some refreshingly green photos. Unfortunately, this area is likely to be brown and dry in other parts of the year.
Helpful Resources
Point Reyes National Seashore park page here.
Good Eats
Delightful and tastefully made Puerto Rican food can be found at Sol Food.
Or try some delicious and authentic Mexican food at Taqueria San Jose in San Rafael - indulge yourself, we dare you! This is a spot we've visited multiple times and would revisit again.
Okay, this one may be a bit unexpected, but Andy's Local Market has a great selection. We ordered a made-to-order pizza here, and it was heavenly. Bonus points because we got to enjoy it on the benches outside with a lovely view of the wharf. (Thanks Miles for the rec!)
Fish has some really fresh... fish. Local, sustainable seafood dominates the menu; we highly recommend the Portuguese red chowder and any of the grilled fresh catches paired with their housemade pasta. It's pricey but the quality is unbeatable.
Last but not least, various options are available in the quaint town of Point Reyes Station.